In a heatwave, walkers are few, but the young seem cheerfully brave about the high temperatures, and press on regardless. In our fortnight looking after the shelter at Emmaüs, Susan and I met some inspiring 20-somethings, whose dedication to the pilgrimage, open-heartedness and lively conversation more than made up for the longueurs of hours without visitors.
On our first day, Rafael took refuge from
the hot afternoon before setting off on the last kilometres to Maslaq. It was
obscurely comforting to look out now and again and see him quietly reading in
the shade: I wonder if a six-hour stay is a record; he must have finished his
book, because he left it behind for us – thank you, Rafael.
A couple of days later, Loulou and her
friend turned into the drive, almost by accident (as she wrote in the visitors’
book). She had been working as a carer in maisons
de retraite in France and Switzerland, and was taking some time off to
regroup before returning to studying.
Two of the three delightful young people
who graced my last day at Arthez were also ‘betweeners’. They had been working
in the film industry after studying visual effects at university, and had
decided to carry on all the way to Finisterre – more than 2000 km from their
starting point in Belgium – while they thought about ‘where now’. The
friend with whom they’d been walking since Le Puy en Velay was about to embark
on the last year and a half of a decade of training as a psychiatrist: no doubt
about her future, but perhaps a real
need to take a break and reflect before the final stage.
And there were others – not quite so
young – who were also considering turning points in their lives and who
honoured us with their confidence. We thank you all for your company and
conversation and trust. May you see your way with clear eyes. If you can walk
the camino in a canicule,you have the courage and spirit for
whatever you decide to do next.
Susan and Rose